Saturday 30 November 2013

The Stories We Wear

I just watch the new marketing campaign of Patagonia, I have to say I really liked it. It play with the memories, stories and nostalgia of own clothes. I also have one of those items, It is a light day pack. I bought it in New Delhi, the first time that I was doing backpacking 10 years ago. After this , It has been with me in all my trips: India, Europe, Senegal, Grand Canyon, Jamaica.........Always with me. This is my nostalgia travel item for me. I though about bring it to the pacific crest trail but I don't have space this time. I will travel very light. Probably I may get some parts of it , maybe the rain protection or something to keep it rolling, for me it tells an story and bring many good memories I hope you enjoy with this trailer. 


Saturday 16 November 2013

Pacific Crest Trail



It's official. I will try to achieve the Pacific Crest Trail Thru -Hike 2014. Tickets booked!!!



Grand Canyon National Park – Arizona

The Grand Canyon is one of those hikes that you need to do once in a lifetime. On April 2013 I had the opportunity. I was travelling around USA and I thought that this side trip from Las Vegas deserves. As I didn't have much time I look to do the called the South rim bottom and back. I saw a few places that discourage people to do it as it could be too hard. In the other hand many people achieve it. Just need a good physical condition, but not need to be an ironman.  It is a total of 16 miles, 7 down and 9 up.  After think about it we decide to for it well prepare: water, food, and clothing.


We start by 9.00 in the South Kaibab Trailhead with a very windy and cold weather. We start  going down and son you really how beautiful and special is this place, the magnitude, the colours, the lights. The way down is deep deep. Until you reach the plateau. From here you can see the river at the end of the hole and start to get warmer in this area.







We reach the Colorado River by 12.00, have a lunch and without time to visit the Phanton ranch we start the climb up. On the way in nearly step into a sneak, my biggest nightmare,  I could panic and jump into the cliff. The way up is a little bit more smooth following a small creek. This is ok for the first miles but when the sun appears uufff, it’s when you start to understand how dangerous is this. You are in a oven, it is a trap. It is not like in a mountain that you can come the way down. Here the exit is in the top. Sun and no win....ufff. Careful. 



The Indian Garden Campground is a nice oasis to chill down, do some snacking and relax the legs. The hardest part still is waiting for you. You have to put everything that you get to reach the edges. Tourist start to looking to you with weird as you approach the rim. Finally is done.

Rim to bottom and back it is possible but very carefully. I did in April and I have clouds most part of the day. When the sun sows up that is hell. If you choose a hot day in August you are Death!!!

Now we just have to drive back four hours to Las Vegas, time to party!!!




Peak District National Park –England

Peak district is quite close from where I live in Birmingham. You can get into Buxton in around 2 hours by train. I arrived there in a miserable evening, English weather. I started walking West, crossing the Errwood Reservoir and after the moors. At this point I discovered what was all about the moors. I did not know what it was a moor.  It’s a place where it is impossible to camp, full of wet, mud and long herb.  I reach the Cat & Fiddle, a very hiker’s friendly pub with nice views of the area.  It was the perfect place to study the map and try to find a camping area. I headed to Panniers Pool and Bingo! Perfect spot with a waterfall! Trail dinner and set up a new tent – 1 person tent Ferrino, £80.00, you cannot ask for much at this price, it makes the job, 1,5 kg.

Pannier Pool
The Moors


Next morning, pack and full English breakfast in the Gradbach Hostel. I found the roaches area too tourist, full of climbing people and bus tours with stop in this iconic place, it deserves and more when you see the Doxey pool. In this day I pushed long to have dinner at Mermaid Pub. But crap, it is not open any more, please take this place from the maps.....Keep walking south until Onecote. I just found a farm that let you pitch you tent for just £5.00. Perfect, set up and go to the village for dinner. Nice pub brewing their own Ale plus steak. This is hiker’s heaven.



Day number three pass throw a village call Buttertton, beautiful, it is a mix of Lord of the Ring and Games of Thrones. I suggest this location to anyone that passes by. You can imagine how the old times here were with the knight and all that.  

Buttertton
From here the trail reach the Manifold Trail by the river. This area is nice for the proximity of the river but I got annoying for the number of bicycles that are there. You cannot relax in any moment if you don’t want to be run over. At this point I started to look for a place to camp, it is quite difficult as there are many farms or small villages and I don’t want to be woken up by the police. My only solution it was to go to the top of the tallest mountain and camp there. Child night with great views.



The highlight of the four day was the Monsal Dale. The old train rail had been transform in a walking path, creating a very special area.  Very tourist area but it’s been preserving adequately.  In the fourth day of hiking you don’t look any more like a 1 hour walk tourist; you start to look dirty dirty. It was my last night in the park and had a booking in the Ravenston Hostel. This was a large family house in the middle of the park that was donated to promote the area. Now, it is a very comfortable with great food , drinks, staff and fantastic views. 


This was the end of the trip, next day just walk to Buxton and take the train back. The Peak District is not a Park where to get lost in the wildness; you are always close to civilization. It’s a good place in the middle of England to disconnect. Just two complains:


      Fences – I know , there are there for the animals, but you cannot imagine how feed up I finish after 5 days

      Aggressive cows – I did not have any problem traversing areas with cows or bull during the first three days until I step into a parcel with maybe 50 Cows.  They start to surround me and follow me, I try to keep calm and keep walking, moving the poles to keep the distance, when I jump the fence I could breathe. I did not do anything different than before, no weird movement. After I search in Google and show up that several people dies a year in the UK by cows attack, normally accompanied by a dog. Farmers if a public path crosses your lands please don’t put aggressive cows. 

Monday 11 November 2013

The way of Saint James - Camillo de Santiago

Last summer I hike the last part of the Camino de Santiago. The one that goes from Santiago to Fisterra, the end of the world as the Romans used to called it. This path always attract me because has more relation with the pagan than with the religious side.


We start in Santiago, with the beautiful cathedral and the old city. This old city is really amazing, full of life and tradition. The exit of Santiago is not very glamorous, you escape throw the back door across some neighbourhoods with some crazy constructions....


But soon you get into the real Galicia , full of green, water and moderate mountains.  You reach Pontemacira. What a wonderful place to stop by the river and drink one of those local beers called Strella Galicia with so many hops, it is like a I.P.A made in Galicia.




We stay in the new San Jose  hostel in Negreira , super comfortable, all the facilities. Now , what is really really important in Negreira is this restaurant : O Barqueiro . The best steak ever, very popular. This is not air-talk.  It is butter meat. Forget the starts Michellin restaurant, go to his place.

The second day starts with a 5 km of smooth ascension. It is a trail in deep the forest. After, we have some parts of tarmac. We entry in Mazaricos, nice area, it is a mix of hills, agriculture and rural areas. We left the Fervenza Lake on the right side and little bit later we reach the Alberge in Olveiroa. The perfect place to relax after the walk. It is a small town with few bars and the typical Spanish good food.

The last sting of the Path of St James must be one of the best ones, no doubt, and also quite hard for this path. You have a wild stretch of 10 km without civilization, really appreciated. But even better, you finally reach the coast from the mountain with some fantastic views, Enjoy! A few more kilometres between forest, beaches and towns and you are in Finisterre.  Now the last push up to the lighthouse. In a sunny day it is so beautiful that nothing hurt, you are in the end of the world.

The Tradition is to burn your boots and clothes as a symbol of leave everything behind you, a sign that the pilgrimage is over.  I skip this part as my nike air were in a perfect state. This is another thing that I don’t understand. Why most of the pilgrims wear those huge boots, I know I don’t wear the most optimal but boot? Any running shoes would be more comfortable....

I did the new tradition of doing the last part in this style: called “carretilla”



Time to celebrate it eating some quality fish with a Albarinho wine from the region. My recommendation is Mar Viva restaurant. First you choose the fish and wine from the market, after take a seat upstairs, they will do for you the hard job of prepare. The cooking times are perfect and the best product. This is restaurant is in Corcubion, you would need a ride.

The best of the Camillo is the lightweight. You don’t need much. Always there are alberges, restaurants, bars and the best food in Spain, in the north. Good food, good wines at a cheap price, nice beer. I know this is not very religious but hike your own hike my friend.  

This is not a typical natural park trail .This is a historic path that mix wilderness and culture.






Enjoy!