The west Highland Way, Scotland, Fort Willians

The west Highland way it has been a different experience. It is a mix between Pacific crest trail and camino de Santiago. You don’t have those 100 miles stretch; you pass ones a day by a small local pub. You have in the other hand those moments of solitude and wilderness of the PCT. You can stay in hostels or do like me and carry your shelter. I believe that in Scotland you can camp anywhere, you can cross private property...it is quite relax country with all this. Be aware of midges, small mosquitos, in summer time. I suffered quite a lot with this. You have water  kind of everywhere, it looks pristine but I always filter it, I just think in the all the sheep’s and pesticides, The last day you can climb the highest pick in the United Kingdom, Ben Nevis, over 1000m, a decided to skip it as it was a very foggy day and my knee need some rest to rest the GR20 in 3 days in Corsica!

Ben Nevis from google..

If you are thinking in do it the west highland way keep in mind the weather, rains a lot , I imagine like in the AT, here there is not much cover, there is not much trees and the floor seems like always wet, some days I found quite difficult to find a place to camp that is not soaked. All this rain and mist create a surreal atmosphere, full of mystery, legends. You can imagine why so many stories of monsters and witches   show up here. Walk in the mist in the forest around ruins of old houses and castles is something quite creepy. Regarding gear I recommend fully waterproof, I had trousers and jackets, pack cover and pack liner. I did it with a tarpent contrail and down sleeping bag 20 F Zpacks, I had stove, I like to wake up and have my coffee and do a hot dinner at night, during the day better do lunch in a pub.

Mist in Scotland ( google pic ) 

I found this trail crossing to much road or walking with the close noise of cars, you have some moments where you follow a trail in the middle of nowhere but you would come back to the road, it is a mix. The good thing is you always can have a good pint of local beer and taste the traditional dishes of Scotland. Scotland is very outdoors orientated; I think is a kind of Washington or Colorado where people likes the outdoors.

I would recommend hiking with a guide book, just to cover the basics, and an historic book. Here in Scotland there are so many stories about clan wars. It put you in the situation of the scenery in how the people used to leave in this difficult remote area.

I took back from fort Williams the scenic train (it is actually the normal train)  to Glasgow. If you have some more time in Scotland I will recommend going a little bit norths into the Isle of Skye, This is a beautiful place to hike, hiking heaven and you can reach it also by a scenic train. In Scotland there is a few more long trails. Reading about I saw the entry from the guy from Zpacks doing a coast to coast without trail, you suppose to find your way, using trails or cross-country, I found it very interesting, could be a good alternative. Before leaving Scotland pay a visit into the classic lake Ness Monster  ( loch Ness ) and spend time in Edinburgh, historic and vibrant city.

Isle of Skye , Scotland

The west Highland Way, Lairigmor, Scotland

The west Highland Way,  Scotland

I was lucky, the morning brought some sun after a few days of rain , the first climb of the day is the called "Devils Staircase " a simple climb of 250 m, basically nothing, quite steep for a while but nothing, This is the highest point of the West Highland Way, so you can get the idea that the trail goes more into valleys than mountain crest. A little disappointed with that but is a beautiful trail.

Going down into the town of Kinlochleven I spot a hiking pole coming out from a bin, one was broken and the other was perfect, It was a black diamond ultra distance... a really good pole in carbon fiber. Last weekend was a race over here so someone must break one and just throw both....Like my extra hiking pole.

For this season I bought the Fizan 158 g poles, really happy with those. In this town I resupply a little and have some hot food and in the evening start the last part of the trail, finishing in Fort Williams.

The west Highland Way,  Scotland

There is some climb with views of the cost that put you into a Lairigmor Valley, with some old old stone houses, some sheep here and there, again more rain. It has been one of my favorite areas of the this trail and it is very accessible for anyone .Getting dark and trying to find somewhere to camp, nothing , walk more, found some possible camps but not perfect, no flat, to much water accumulation  It is one of those that you don't know if it is better to stop and camp or keep walking until find something better, finally it pay off, I found a flat dry area under some tree, thanks god , just what I need it. I am doing over 20 miles days without been in shape so I am struggling at the end of the days. The good news is that there is no midges here. the last days those midges had eaten me alive. Tomorrow last days.

The west Highland Way,  Scotland

The west Highland Way, Scotland , Rannoch Moors

The west Highland Way,  Scotland , Glen Coe entrance

I woke up with the sound of the rain, the rain is here and it would be until the end, weather forecast confirm, rain an more rain. The thing is that even raining it is not cold, is warm, so I still can go with shorts. I waited until 10.00 till rain stop to break camp, breakfast in Tyndrum and keep walking till Bridge of Orchy. I am getting frustrated with all this road noise walking so close to the road.....I though it would be more wild.

The west Highland Way,  Scotland , Rannoch Moors

In the afternoon this changed...First I got a rain shower , got soak and enter into the most inhabitant are of all United Kingdom. First you pass a beautiful lake with a cottage  where it was filmed one of the last movies of James Bond, the trail start to climb into the Rannoch Moor and here is where the sound of any cars disappear. This is the terrains most difficult to live. It is just undulation terrain with water all over. I did all this Moor raining but I really enjoy it, took many pictures. The path that I walk supposed to be built to move troops quickly in the area, are kind of military roads of the past.

The west Highland Way,  Scotland , Rannoch Moors

In the other side of the Valley you can see one of the most iconic valleys of Scotland, Glen Coe, I had the opportunity of drive by but not yet of hike it, this time I have not time. This area is quite special, you can think in all the history involve here and the different wars between the different clans and also the hardness and the beauty of this mountains.

I stop today at the entrance of Glen Coe, still raining. There is a pub just by where I got a drink and water. I decided to eat a sandwiches in the tent instead of cooking something because of the rain. Quite a few people in this camping site. Hopefully tomorrow I have some sun. It has been a long wet day but with a fantastic background. Tomorrow would be able to get very close to Ben Nevis and maybe climb it if there is a good weather forecast. 

The West Highland Way, Scotland

The West Highland Way, Scotland 

Arriving to Glasgow by plan it was impossible to bring a gas canister with me, outdoors shop close earlier in Sunday so I had to go to a Tescos and buy a can of red bull and nail polishing to have a hot dinner. Even in train station doesn't sell disinfection alcohol because is flammable.

The starter was already raining, great ,  just start walking in the rain, leaving this Milngavie town.  Quickly I started to see some red deer here and there, pass a few lakes and had my few encounter in the midges, midges are like mosquitos, and are terrible in Scotland , never stop.

I just walk a few miles and camped in a nice place in the side of the trail , here more midges but with a great view. I thought it would get dark around 10.30 but it never get dark in Scotland. It just get into dusk around

11.30 until 3.30 . Not really need a headlamp. it is like a super full moon.

Next day some side road walk and get into this Iconic Hill where you have a great view of all the Lomon Lake with all its Island. Luckily is sunny, I realize that the resupply in this trail is pub to pub, I don't need more than 1 day of food and half liter of water, water all over.  This first part of the lake has camping restriction so I have to puss to leave this area and be able to camp.  I saw a car nearly falling from a cliff  not sure how driver put car over there , rescue team is on the way.

  

People carry super heavy bags.......not much sense of ultralight etc.........I had to camp just after the  camp restriction in the side of the trail.  This area could be quite cool to hike around and camp on the beach of the leak, very nice.  There is a water bus boat  running around the lake.

difficult terrain by lake Lomon

Second day started flat, there is quite a lot of dirty road walking , not much trail, dirty walk is easy because you do big mileage but really..... It got into a difficult area, up and downs by the lake, it pass by Rob Roy cave..where he used to hide. I saw people doing this area by bike. They have just to take the bike and carry it in the back, impossible to ride this area. The rest of the day has been quite a lot of walk close to the road, not very good really. you can see a lot of developments around. They are destroying the mountains....... I saw quite a lot of tree recovery plans around to bring back the oak and pines to the region.

campsite in the valley 

At the end I camped in the top of a hill, In a farm land. while cooking I did a time lapse , see below. I am now half way of the way but it would start raining from tonight.

The west Highland way

 

After hike the PCT last year I knew that this year would be just something short as I will have just a month Holidays. After being in a quick visit in Scotland I discover the West Highland Way. Just 96 of not very rugged terrain but very beautiful and full  of history 

It is just 96 miles going from the outskirts of Glasgow up to Fort Williams. It is technically part of the Appalachian mountains.... I will try also to do an scape to Ben Nevis, highest point in the Uk, with just over 1000 m. Easy. I have just 5 days so I will have to keep the typical average of the PCT but without any training . I think should be ok as it is quite flat really , it like goes through valleys rather than by crests.

 

 

 

Regarding equipment is basically the same than PCT, ready for a few showers ....Tarp tent... I have a new watch Garmin so I am looking to see how it works and carrying and ebook as luxury. Anyway not much problem for food resupply with a maximum of 2 days from point to point , so easy and light.